Think the Cinque Terre towns are beautiful? Well here are two towns that are lovelier. Think the scenery on the Cinque Terre is gorgeous? It’s just as great here. Even better is the fact that you’ll be one of the few foreign tourists.
We took the bus from Lerici, got off at the bus stop outside of Hotel Fiascherino, then walked down the stairs to the most beautiful beach. It was a small cove surrounded by rocks. The beach offered chair and umbrella rentals, we used the facilities at Hotel Fiascherino. The waters at this beach are perfect for swimming, there is no current, and the sea is crystal clear. This is a perfect spot, there was a cafe/bar, which is where we grabbed lunch. I had a beautiful tomato and fresh mozzarella salad. We stayed at the beach for most of the day and around 4PM headed out towards Tellaro.
The walk was completely doable, but to be honest carrying a 7 month old up the stairs and hills was not for the weak. So halfway to Tellaro, we stopped at Hotel il Nido for a drink, it was the most beautful spot, tucked into the cliff overlooking the water. From here we continued our talk to Tellaro. It was the most quaint little town built into the cliffs, and it literally drops into the sea.
When you first get to Tellaro, you’ll find it is a maze of tiny little lanes and passageways that simply tempt one to explore. Inside the old town there are no cars, and whichever way you go you always seem to end up at the quaint fishing port. It’s a lovely place to end up in, I’m happy to spend hours here just watching life go by. This, and the piazza higher up the hill, are the best places to sit and people watch.
Go and get lost! With Tellaro being so small, you will not be lost for long, and you’ll soon find yourself back in the piazza or down by the little harbour.
We had dinner at Osteria La Caletta. We had Cozze Ripiene (stuffed muscles), Capesante Gratinate (stuffed scallops), Ravioli (“Agnolotti”) with lobster filling topped with a crab sauce and Calamari with baby octopus. My glass of house white wine was 1,50 Euro, less expensive then the bottle of water, “gas” 2,00 Euro. Dinner was 60,50 Euro for 2 adults!
Getting to Tellaro & Fiascherino: I highly recommend parking in Lerici and taking the bus to Fiascherino, from here you can easily walk to Tellaro. The road to Tellaro & Fiascherino is very tight and parking is scarce. It only takes about ten minutes by bus to get from Lerici to the bus stop right outside the Fiascherino Hotel. We made the rookie mistake of trying to park in Tellaro, but ended up driving back to Lerici parking and taking the bus.
Options for staying in the area: Stay at Hotel Fiascherino or the Hotel il Nido and explore Italy’s last undiscovered coastal paradise.